I go


I am aware of the risks, I am well informed, I am very well trained physically and technically (or I’ve hired a mountain guide). Remains to complete my project.

Refuges and lift

Book the refuge and confirm 3 days before is mandatory. In case of cancellation, inform the hut keeper early. Apart from vital necessity, access to the hut without booking will be denied.

  • Refuge du Goûter
  • Refuge de Tête Rousse
  • Refuge des Grands-Mulets
  • Refuge de Tré la Tête
  • Refuge des Conscrits
  • Abri Vallot
  • Refuge Gonella

 

– Refuge du Goûter : +33 (0)4 50 54 40 93; Booking : refugedugouter.ffcam.fr

– Refuge de Tête Rousse : +33 (0)4 50 58 24 97; Booking : refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr

– Refuge des Cosmiques : +33 (0)4 50 54 40 16

– Refuge des Grands Mulets : +33 (0)4 50 53 57 10

– Refuge de Tré la tête : +33 (0)4 50 47 01 68 ; www.trelatete.com

– Refuge de Durier : +33 (0)6 89 53 25 10;  refugedurier.ffcam.fr

– Refuge des Conscrits : +33 (0)4 79 89 09 03 ; refugedesconscrits.ffcam.fr

– Abri Vallot : only in case of emergency

– Refuge Gonella : +39 (0)165 885 101; www.rifugiogonella.com

– Refuge Monzino : +39 (0)165 809 553 ; www.rifugiomonzino.com

This is box title
Haute Savoie Préfecture, the highest local official authorities reinforce this prohibition since summer 2013Bivouac, overnight camping, from sunset to sunrise only is allowed in the Chamonix area (by law n°102/92)

• Enquire about lift system (schedule, price).

Compagnie du Mont Blanc : Tél. +33 (0)4 50 53 22 75 ; www.compagniedumontblanc.fr

Téléphérique de l’Aiguille du Midi : +33 (0)4 50 53 22 75

Téléphérique de Bellevue : +33 (0)4 50 54 70 93

Tramway du Mont-Blanc : +33 (0)4 50 53 22 75

Funivie Monte Bianco : +39 (0)165 89 925; www.montebianco.com

Weather and mountain conditions

• Take the latest weather forecast (and Snow and Avalanche Report available in winter).

CARRE_OFFICE

– Web : www.meteo.fr ou www.chamonix.com ou www.chamonix-meteo.com

– Voice mail : +33 (0)8 99 71 02 74

– Office de Haute Montagne : +33 (0)4 50 53 22 08 ; www.chamoniarde.com

– Tourist offices

– Bulletin du Val d’Aoste : +39 (0)165 272 333 ; www.regione.vda.it

 

 

 

 

Adapt and know how to renounce

• Never go alone.

Take the time to learn and to progress: delay the ascent for an adequate acclimatization, plan only once controls of the ground, technics and training are learned

Adapt the day of ascent regarding refuges booking.

Adapt the ascent regarding weather and snow conditions (postpone, cancel).

If weather turns, know to renounce.

Succeed with a dosed effort: a marathonian runner may not get to the top.

Know how to hydrate and feed correctly and regularly.

Stop the ascent and turn back immediately with the first serious signs of AMS.

Renounce is to give the choice to stay alive.

3 levels of AMS :  

Headaches 1 point
Lack of appetite / nauseas 1 point
Insomnia 1 point
Dizziness 1 point
Headaches not yielding 1g of aspirin or paracetamol 2 points
Vomiting 2 points
Shortness of breath at rest 3 points
Abnormal fatigue 3 points
Decrease in the amount of urine 3 points

What to do :

1 to 3 points : light AMS

Continue the ascent if symptoms disappear with aspirin or paracetamol.

4 to 6 points : moderate AMS

Rest 24h at the refuge before continuing the ascent.

> 6 points : severe AMS

It is imperative to go down : vital risk !

Manage an accident

At 4 810 meters, a simple weakness can be letal. No one can sin by ignorance or by recklessness. An equipment not adapted/mastered, technical advices or weather forecast ignored, ignorance of the area can have dramatic consequences.

If you see an accident, you must take the usual emergency precautions :

PROTECT

Avoid an over-accident (avalanche, rockfalls or seracs, crevasse) by protecting others.

Never move a casualty unless he/she is in direct, imminent danger, in which case, be careful to keep the torso/neck/head aligned and protect against the cold.

ALERT

112

• By phone (see below) or radio (150 Mhz). 

If neither work, send a messenger (not alone if possible) to inform the nearest refuge or find an alert area. Refuges are equipped with an emergency beacon.

Rescue intervention has to be considered when it is not possible to manage the situation oneself.

 

 

 

How to contact rescuce
Europe : 112

France (PGHM de Chamonix) : +33 (0)4 50 53 16 89

Italie (Vallée d’Aoste) : 118 ou Secours Alpin Valdotain : +39 (0) 800 800 319 / +39(0)800 319 319

ALERT must include a specific message: where, altitude, characteristic point, clothes description, numbers of victims, nature of injuries, name and cell phone

RESCUE

Secours

• First aid action. These actions must be known and include emergency scene management, trauma management, airway management, rescue breathing, chest compressions, etc.

Depending on the terrain, try to clear a landing area.

When helicopter approaches (if conditions allows): prevent any equipment to fly away, become identified by raising the two arms forming the letter Y (« Yes »). When helicopter lands, crouch low and stop moving.